Every day, thousands of vehicles drive past the sad little toll house on the south side of Hyndford bridge, paying little attention. The roof of the building collapsed earlier this century, and as the structure decays, new evidence is being revealed of its long and fascinating history.
It’s probable that the toll house was built in or around 1773, at the same time as Hyndford Bridge. The elegant and substantial stone bridge was constructed as part of a grand turnpike road linking Edinburgh and Ayr, and eliminated the need to cross the Clyde by ferry boat. Prior to 1773, most traffic from Glasgow and Lanark to Biggar and the south had been carried across the river by the ferry at Carmichael Boat, about 500 yards upstream of the bridge. The turnpike improvements brought huge benefits to travellers and trade, and the OSA proudly reported that in Carmichael parish “the road is so much improved that carts can pass in all seasons.”
1.) This strip map was published just after Hyndford Bridge was constructed, and shows both the route of the bridge and the Carmichael Boat. 2.) Thomson’s map of 1822 shows an inn at the southern approach to Hyndford Bridge. 3.) 25″ OS map c.1860 shows the toll house – clearly titled “Carmichael Boat T.P.) along with two other buildings, perhaps associated with the former inn.
Rather oddly, the toll-house built to serve the bridge was referred to as “Carmichael Boat toll-house” in official documents, and is shown on the 1860 OS map as one of a group of three buildings on the south side of the bridge. Earlier maps (from 1816 and 1822) show an inn at that point, probably one of the two toll-houses in Carmichael parish that are recorded as also being ale-houses. In those early unregulated days, it was not unusual for toll-houses to serve weary travellers with food and drink, and sometimes a bed for the night .
It is unclear how a toll keeper controlled traffic converging from three directions on the south side of Hyndford bridge. A normal wayside toll would have a single gate or toll-bar across the road overseen by a toll-keeper sheltered in a porch or bay protruding from the front of the toll-house. At Hyndford there might have been two or more gates required to regulate traffic across the bridge, and control direct traffic between Biggar and Douglas. This could explain why the toll house was originally built without a protruding porch. Valuation rolls puzzlingly refer to toll-houses at “Carmichael Boat” and “Hyndford Bridge” both at the south end of the bridge; perhaps suggesting that “pontage” – the charge for using the bridge, was collected separately from road tolls? Census records tell us that in 1861, the toll collector was Margaret Waddle, aged 44, who lived with her brother, and 1881 the toll keeper was Margaret Gray, aged 62, who lived alone.
Map showing toll houses in the area – those in red still survive, and newspaper cuttings recording that tolls were let on an annual basis. The older notice suggests that pontage may have been charged separately from tolls at the time?
The two other buildings associated with the toll-house continued to be occupied by working folk until demolished in the 1880’s. William Ewing, described as “grocer and labourer” shared one of these houses with his wife and four children during the 1850’s and 60’s and ran a shop from their home; perhaps the building earlier used as an inn?
Toll roads were abolished in about 1884, when the County Council took over responsibility for maintaining roads. Most toll-houses owned by the Trustees of the North and South Lanarkshire Roads were sold off at that time, however those in Carmichael parish reverted back to the Carmichael estate. Thomas Inglis and his family were tenants of the former toll-house during the first two decades of the 20th century, and Robert Stewart during the 1930’s. Some may recall that later the porch of the toll-house served as a little shop, where cyclists, fishermen, or any other passers-by could stock up with sweeties and juice.
In the 1980’s plans were drawn up for the M8/M6 Fastlink; a motorway linking the M8 at Whitburn with the M74 at Douglas, which would include a new Clyde crossing diverting traffic from the old Hyndford Bridge. There was thought of developing the bridge as a historic monument, converting the toll-house as a museum and visitor centre. Nothing came of any of these bold plans, and 44 ton lorries continue to cross the Clyde on a remarkable structure designed to carry horses and carts over 250 years ago. At about the same time plans were hatched for the commercial development of the Carmichael estate, and in 1989 planning consent was sought to change use of the toll-house from dwelling-house to a visitor centre and shop, which would sell produce from the estate. This was superseded by other plans, and some time later, the property was allowed to fall derelict.
The toll-house in 1974, with jars of sweeties in the porch, and a view taken c.2010 when derelict but still roofed
The old toll house is now in a sad condition; walls have crumbled, and surfaces flaked uncovering features that were previously hidden. It is now apparent that there were once tall windows on either end of the building that would have originally provided a view of traffic approaching in both directions. Unusual circular windows also once existed high on the gable walls.
Ornamental signwriting has been revealed on the lintel over the front door, which had previously been covered by the timber porch. There seem to be several layers of lettering, the most prominent being bold letters in gold leaf that appear to spell out the name “G. Muir”, however we’ve failed to find references to anyone with that name associated with the building. Lower down on the lintel, and seemingly from an earlier period, are the remains of lettering in a cursive script of which only a few letters can be made out. Might this script date from the building’s time as a toll-house? We’ve found no old photographs that might help make sense of it.
Unfortunately this short history seems to raise more questions than it answers – we’d love to hear from anyone who can add to the story or help solve some of the mysteries.
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